Set for release late this year, the 2006 Riesling G-Max represents Keller’s top selection. from a parcel (varying from year to year) whose identity he chooses not to divulge. A striking melange of buddleia, rowan, sea spray, and citrus oil rises from the glass, and in the mouth this exhibits a combination of intensity with elegance, clarity, lift, and refinement that goes well beyond his other wines. A crystalline concentration of berries, citrus, pear, and purple plum, crusted in salt and chalk, barely tinged with fruit pit piquancy, and haloed by floral perfume leads to an impressively concentrated yet positively wafting finish. -
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