Some tasting dinners are about the wines in the glass. Others are about the story that unfolds throughout the evening. The Tenors of Italy was very much the latter. A journey from Trentino to Piedmont, via Friuli, Tuscany and Veneto, showcasing some of the greatest names Italian wine has ever produced.
We began on a high note. Quite literally.
The 2007 Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore immediately set the tone. Mature, complex and perfectly in its drinking window, it displayed beautiful layers of brioche, toasted nuts and candied citrus, all supported by remarkable freshness. It was yet another reminder that Ferrari is not merely Italy’s benchmark for traditional method sparkling wine, but a producer capable of standing confidently alongside the finest prestige Champagnes. A sublime opener that instantly raised expectations for the rest of the evening.
The first battle of the night featured two 2020 Miani Sauvignons: Zitelle and Saurint. Unfortunately, the initial bottle of Zitelle failed to deliver. Tired and somewhat muted, it could not fully express why Miani has achieved cult status among wine lovers. Fortunately, a second bottle came to the rescue. Suddenly the wine revealed the precision, tension and minerality for which Enzo Pontoni is renowned. The contest immediately reached the level everyone had hoped for, once again demonstrating just how much influence a single bottle can have on a tasting.
What made the comparison particularly fascinating was that both wines came from the same producer, the same vintage and the same grape variety. Yet they displayed remarkably different personalities. The 2020 Zitelle leaned towards precision and freshness, while the 2020 Saurint offered greater breadth, texture and power. A compelling reminder that terroir often speaks louder than grape variety.
With the sweetbread course came two Tuscan monuments: Tignanello 2010 and Sassicaia 2013. This was where the evening’s first genuine debates emerged. Some guests were captivated by Tignanello’s freshness, energy and gastronomic precision. Others preferred the aristocratic elegance and seamless harmony of Sassicaia. There was no clear winner, and perhaps that was the most fitting outcome. Two icons, each expressing greatness in a completely different way, reminding us why Tuscany has remained at the pinnacle of the wine world for decades.
The undisputed star of the evening arrived with the main course.
The 2000 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste was simply magnificent. Everything had come together perfectly: the vintage, the traditional style of Rinaldi and more than two decades of bottle age. Roses, tar, truffle, dried herbs and an almost ethereal elegance made this the wine of the night. It was a Barolo that no longer sought to impress through power, but through emotion.
Alongside it stood the 2015 Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate, a wine that offered only a glimpse of its immense future. Deeper, more structured and unmistakably youthful, it remains firmly in its developmental phase. Yet everything about the wine suggests that it will evolve into something truly extraordinary over the next decade or two. Together, the two Barolos provided a fascinating lesson in the beauty of Nebbiolo across different stages of maturity.
For the cheese course, a true rarity appeared in the glass: 1978 Recioto della Valpolicella from Giuseppe Quintarelli. It was not everyone’s favourite wine of the evening, though perhaps that was never its purpose. Mature Recioto demands attention, patience and an open mind. While opinions on the wine varied, there was unanimous agreement regarding the pairing. Alongside aged Comté cheeses, the combination was exceptional, with salt, umami, sweetness and complexity elevating one another beautifully. A reminder that great food and wine pairings can sometimes be even more memorable than the wines themselves.
Beyond the wines, Restaurant Marcel deserves special recognition. A tasting dinner of this calibre depends as much on execution as it does on the bottles being poured, and both the kitchen and service team performed flawlessly throughout the evening. The dishes were thoughtfully designed to complement the wines without ever overshadowing them, while the service was attentive, discreet and perfectly timed. It was the kind of hospitality that often goes unnoticed when everything runs smoothly, yet is absolutely essential to the success of an evening like this. Marcel once again demonstrated why it remains one of Belgium’s most respected gastronomic destinations.
And, as every great opera deserves an encore, the evening concluded with a classic that did not belong to the Italian script.
The 2012 Clos des Goisses from Champagne Philipponnat.
A wine that needs little introduction. Produced from the legendary steep hillside in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Clos des Goisses combines power, concentration and precision unlike almost any other Champagne. The 2012 already offers remarkable depth and complexity, yet still possesses a youthful energy suggesting that its finest years remain ahead. After an evening dedicated to Italian greatness, it provided a fitting finale. Not Italian, certainly, but a perfect reminder that true greatness knows no borders.
The Tenors of Italy delivered everything a great tasting should: outstanding bottles, unexpected twists, lively discussion, emotion in the glass and one wine that rose unmistakably above the rest. For many, the memory of that extraordinary 2000 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste will linger for years to come. And perhaps that is the ultimate measure of a successful evening: when the conversations continue long after the final bottle has been emptied.
