1989 Montrachet - Amiot Bonfils
This particular bottle is a 1989 Montrachet produced by Amiot Monfils (now known as Guy Amiot et Fils) and had a slightly damaged label but perfect level and color, so excellent tasting material. Amiot Bonfils only had about 0.09 Ha of vines in Montrachet (and this only after their plot of Chassagne Montrachet “Dents de Chien” had been promoted), just to give you an idea of how tiny their production is. The color was deep gold, sparkling and unctuous, clinging to the glass with the fervor of young Sauternes. The very first whiff immediately took me to cueing in front of the bakery on a sunny Sunday morning: incredible aromas of sweet brioche, fresh toast accompanied by a fat buttery smell. Adding to the complexity are fruity aromas (sweet golden apples, dried apricot), a hint of honey, tons of nuts (walnut and roastedpine nuts) with a smoky and mineral undertone as well. In the mouth this is a massive and full-throttle wine, releasing everything at once and continuing in power with great depth and impressive length. If it weren’t for the lack of fresh acidity this would definitely rank in my top 10 of favorite white wines, but the balance just isn’t there to place it in the hall of fame. So a very impressive great white that’s just a hair short of immortal status.