1999 Bourgogne Blanc - Comte Georges de Vogue
This vineyard produced wines that until 1993 was sold as Musigny Blanc, the only white Grand Cru in that area, but since being replanted between 1986 and 1997 the owner and cellar master decided to declassify it to a simple Bourgogne Blanc. I had very high expectations for this wine and visually those weren’t diminished : sparkling deep golden in color, high viscosity that already suggested a certain fattiness. The aroma’s and taste sadly didn’t live up to the expectations : it was to say the least, very muted. There was some stale bread noticeable, a touch of walnut and apricot perhaps, but overall it had this musty and oxidized character that wasn’t appealing at all, certainly not following the young and fruity Puligny.
In the mouth it was lifeless and flat too, there was perhaps a depth and concentration and huge mouth coating greasiness, but zeroacidity which resulted in an over evolved, cumbersome beast.